I was famished on my long drive to New York City and pulled off I-95 in the middle of Nowhere, South Carolina. A billboard had directed me to a restaurant on desolate Frontage Road, which had the charm of an abandon rock quarry. In the distance, I saw a bright yellow sign that read "Maurice's BBQ." I bounded into the aromatic smoke pit looking forward to good southern ribs, but what I found instead was good ole fashioned red meat conservatism. In this contentious day and age, it seems even pulled pork is politicized.
