Restaurant Review of the Week: Kabob Express

By Darien Bates

Kabob is a simple thing, or at least that used to my perception. As far as I knew it was limited to one type of food, shish kabob, pieces of meat or vegetables on a skewer and grilled over a flame.

Boy was I wrong.

Kabob, Kebab or Kebob, depending on where you’re from, differs from country to country, the styles so varied one would hardly recognize any relationship between the dishes.

The most recognized form in the United States, shish kabob, originated in Iran and Turkey. The word kebab, literally means “grilled meat,” in Persian, and the dish served on skewers was considered to be the meal of kings. Ordinary citizens ate the dish only once a year during the Persian New Year. Today though, the dish is one Iran’s most popular fast foods.

By contrast, döner kebab, a dish that has gained popularity in Germany, is comprised of sliced chicken or lamb rotated on a vertical spit, much more like the Greek gyro meat we are familiar with in the United States. The meat is cut from the spit and served with pita bread.

The kabob that has long been popular in Baghdad, and perhaps the oldest kebab recipe dating as far back as the tenth century, is nothing like the other forms of kabob. Instead, the dish is made from ground meat, grilled and served with greens and other vegetables, similar to the American hamburger.

Whatever the variety though, and whatever the spelling, kabob has become an extremely popular dish worldwide, a quick refuge for the hungry and hurried diner.

In Falls Church, a place that offers an excellent version of the traditional shish kabob is Kabob Express, located near the Circuit City in the Bailey’s Crossroads area.

The small dine-in/carry-out restaurant is just the kind of place one can slip into for a quick lunch and leave in less than five minutes with a hearty, captivating meal. The cafeteria like set-up, next to the front counter, offers a variety of side options, all very appetizing, and despite the small dining area, the room is well-lit with flowers decorating the simple but elegant tables. It’s comfortable if not fancy.

Likewise, while the food may not be the main course for the president’s next dinner with the Indian Prime Minister, it is quite exceptional compared to the variety of sandwiches and fast food available.

The lamb kabob, served on fresh tandoori bread with rice, salad and sauce is an extremely filling alternative to the fast food burger. The grilled chunks of lamb are flame kissed, adding that slightly charred flavor to the rich and smoky marinated meat. The boneless chicken breast also captures that smoky flavor, and the special marinade and herbs add a pleasant zest.

One of the highlights of the menu is the gyro platter, or döner kebab as it would be called in Germany. The large serving of beef and lamb is incredibly juicy and is combined with just the right amount sauce to add flavor without making it soggy.

The rest of the menu, though not extensive, is chock full of other good choices, including vegetarian options like curry, grilled vegetables, and salads. And for the dessert there is always the baklava, a personal favorite.