Restaurant Review of the Week: Blanca's

By Darien Bates

It’s easy to pass by Blanca’s Restaurant on Washington Street in Falls Church without really noticing. It blends into the background of the neighboring stores, even with the colorful mural in the window of a woman (presumably Blanca) making pupusas.

Open since 1989, I have passed it myself, on my way into Foxes Music store next door, and never gave it a second thought. Fortunately, in searching out interesting places to dine in Falls Church I took a second look at Blanca’s, and behind the relatively non-descript façade is an excellent restaurant, serving Salvadorean and Mexican specialties.

The first impression when walking in, always important in the restaurant business, is of space, surprising when one realizes that the entire restaurant is a single, undivided dining room with a bar in the far left side of the room. The initial feel has to do with two room-length mirrors on either side of the dining area that expand the space, and reflect enough light to keep the place from getting too dark.

The mirrors are just the first part of the picture. The walls are decorated with fascinating prints representing different aspects of Salvadoran culture, from the red shingled roofs of the traditional homes to a beautiful print of a man astride a horse. On the right side of the room are a series of woodcarvings depicting picturesque landscapes.

The tables are adorned with gorgeous table cloths, white with red trim and a centered picture of a woman in Salvadoran dress. Words around the picture read “ El Salvador, C.A.”

At the back of the restaurant is a glass case with various baked goods like cakes and breads, looking absolutely tantalizing. Behind the case, a colorful mural depicts village life.

Along the wall are a series of booths, just big enough for two people, divided from each other by low walls adorned with flowers. The walls are substantial enough to provide that feeling of privacy, but not so tall that one feels isolated from the rest of the restaurant, a plus when the place has as much energy as Blanca’s.

When busy during weekends or evenings, life is everywhere, the corner jukebox playing just loud enough without being overwhelming, and the smell of the spices and meat filling your head.

Though small, the bar at the back of the room is very comfortable, and the selection of drinks and margaritas, while not exhaustive, are substantial and the staff is very pleasant.

Even before the meal ever arrives you’re already impressed with the place, but once the plate of hearty, rich Salvadoran fare is placed before you, that respect becomes deep affection.

Topping the list of choices is the classic pupusa, a favorite of Salvadoran cuisine. The cornmeal dough, wrapped around filling of meat, cheese or beans is a great way to start any meal, and is a wonderful mid-day snack, costing just $1.50. The pupusas are served with curtido, sliced cabbage marinated in vinegar.

Good entrées include the pollo en crema, a breast of chicken sautéed in a creamy sauce and blended with Salvadoran spices. Heavier options include the strip steak, lightly marinated and served with rice and beans.

Acoompanying many of the dishes is the fried yucca, which for those who haven’t tried it before, is similar to fried potatoes and a personal favorite.

Across the board, the food is obviously prepared with care, enough so that rather than walk by Blanca’s next, perhaps it is time you stop in and check it out as well.