Restaurant Spotlight of the Week:

Dining at Tara Thai invokes visions of swimming into the Phuket Reef for the first time to see a world of life known only in T.V. documentaries and by scientists who have managed to make the exploration of the world’s oceans a life’s work.

This impression is not due to the interior decoration, although the underwater theme is comprehensively displayed throughout the establishment. The bar is painted with abstract sea life, hanging shades and ceiling ornamentation are reminiscent of waves, and intricate frescoes portray a range of sea life.

Nor is it the mellow lighting and atmosphere, though the cool-toned mood promises refuge from a long day of work, or a brief escape with friends or lovers for an evening meal.

No, the sense of encountering new worlds comes more from the variation in the traditional Thai cuisine. From the noodle dishes to the curry, the food provides fresh surprises while retaining the sweet, spicy tang that personifies Thai cooking.

The surprises come early and often in the meal with the appetizers. The chicken wings, not normally a selection at a Thai restaurant, are stuffed with crab meat and spices, and then fried. Crisp and moist, the combination of flavors set the table for a surprising tableau of choices.

For noodle lovers, they offer the traditional Pad Thai with thin rice noodles, shrimp, bean curd, peanuts, bean sprouts, scallions, and egg. But the other noodle options should provide avenues for adventure. The Pikachu Noodles are glazed with an exotic yellow curry sauce. The chicken and shrimp are succulent and the noodles themselves provide a solid anchor to the meal. Tara’s cashew chicken manages to avoid the trap that many Thai restaurants make with overly sticky and sweet sauces. Instead the dish takes advantage of the flavors of the chicken, cashews, and scallions, and only enhances the taste with the sauce. The effect is a fresh sweet taste unburdened by heavy syrup.

For a robust option there is the Nua Obb, sliced beef braised in exotic spices. The beef is moist and tender and the sweet marinade is off-set by the green onion and chili puree served on the side. The puree has a lingering heat to it that satisfies those looking for a more intense flavor.

Another choice for those looking for spicier fare is the green curry. Hot and fresh, the curry features generous amounts of chicken, beef, pork, or shrimp. The instilled flavors of the fresh basil leaves and Thai eggplants are bold yet smooth.

But just as the theme of the restaurant is the ocean, the seafood is one of the biggest draws. The Deep Sea meal brings together the fruits of the ocean with mussels, shrimp, scallops, and squid in a curry sauce. The spices play nice with the subtle flavors of the seafood. The highlight is the shrimp which practically melts in the mouth.

The food can be paired with an extensive options of drinks from the well stocked bar. The wine list includes Virginia and Australian wines but features both red and white wines imported directly from Thailand. The medium bodied red is light enough to be paired with the spicy dishes without overpowering them.

The diner who allows the subtle flavors to swim across the tongue, and who relaxes into the calm waves of the restaurant’s atmosphere, will leave having had a satisfying and truly unique dining experience.